Alclad II Metalizers
How to use Metalizers
The most important thing to do is make sure to have very
smooth, bare plastic. Metallics tend to show all imperfects in the underlying
surface, so
extra time spent prepping the plastic will pay off in the end. Pay extra attention to
seams where parts were glued together. I use 1500-2000grit wet/dry sand
paper for polishing the plastic. And sometimes I polish even further with
Tamiya's Polishing/Rubbing Compound until it feels as smooth as glass.
Once the model has been prepped, a base coat of black 'primer' will be necessary. Gloss Black Enamel for the Chrome and acrylic for the other colours. This will help protect the plastic from the lacquer and give the Alclad II something to bite into.
I spray the metallizer, straight from the bottle, with my airbrush. I usually apply two coats. Unlike Model Master Metallizers, Alclad II does not need to be buffed since it will have a brilliant shine right away. This shine might be unwanted in some cases, so other metallic paints and metallizers still have their purposes. The metallized surface is very durable compared with other metallizers.
Note:
Alclad II is lacquer based, so be sure to wear a respirator while
working with it.
| Metallics | |
| A | Aluminium |
| B | Duraluminium |
| C | Dark Aluminium |
| D | Pale Burnt Metal |
| E | Polished Aluminium |
| F | White Aluminium |
| G | Chrome |
| H | Pale Gold |
| I | n/a |
| J | Copper |
| K | Magnesium |
| L | Steel |
| M | Jet Exhaust |
| Prismatic | |
| ALD201 | Prismatic Scarabeus - Green to Blue |
| ALD202 | Prismatic Maple - Copper Red to Green |
| ALD203 | Prismatic Jade - Gold to Green |
| ALD204 | Prismatic Sapphire - Deep Blue to UV |
NOTE: I am not a retailer and the paints listed here are not for sale. If you're looking for a place to buy modelling supplies, check out my mail order houses page.
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