Tamiya 1/12 Honda CBR1100XX Super Blackbird '96
Step #1 - Frame Assembly
Painted the moulded in fasteners with CR.
The rear brake cylinder was painted with BAP:1 + NBB:1 instead of X-11:1 + X-12:1.
Step #1 - Swingarm
Added the rear brake lines and they were heat formed. This gives a very clean look to them. In the box art you can see that the rear brake line is held with a small clip. I made a clip using 1mm x 10mm aluminium from a Coca-Cola can and a piece of #28 wire. The clip was bent into a "J" shape and wrapped around the brake line. Then a #74 drill was used to drill a hole through the clip. Now the brake line and clip were positioned on the swing arm and a hole drilled for the #28 wire. A short piece of wire was CAed into the hole and then the clip slipped on the wire and the excess cut off. The result is a very convincing clip that looks bolted to the swing arm.
Drilled out the self cleaning holes in the brake disc and painted the braking surface with BAP. The center was painted with X-18:15 + X-21:1. The bolt heads were painted with NBM.
The chain was painted with BT over a base coat of NBB. Painted the chain ring's bolt heads with CR.
The caliper was painted with BEX and sealer instead of XF-24. Again, the XF-24 didn't look right. Then the calipers were masked with Maskol and the caliper bracket was touched up with NBA. After removing the Maskol, the caliper was touched up with BEX. Highlighted the brake line fittings with NBA:1 + NBB:1.
The spring was first painted with XF-2 and once dry, painted it with X-7. The white undercoat ensured the red would be nice and bright.
I lightly sanded the centerline of the tire with 400grit paper.
Be sure to add the decals to the swing arm and chain guard before installing the exhaust. Otherwise it will be next to impossible to apply them.
Inner fender was painted with BEX and sealer.
Detail painted the battery post covers with X-7 and X-18:3 + XF-63:1 for the battery's retaining strap.
Step #4 - Engine Assembly
The oil filter was painted FRAM orange (X-6:7 + X-7:1) rather than X-1. This adds a little colour to the black engine. I wrote some black 'lettering' on the oil filter to make it look like a FRAM filter.
Highlighted all bolt heads with CR.
I didn't cement the headlight lens or reflector into place in order to allow a bit of 'play' if need when adding the nose fairing to the frame.
Step #5 - Attaching Injectors
When adding the carburetors& fuel rail, I positioned the engine so the carburetors sat vertically. This ensured they stayed properly aligned as the cement dried.
Step #7 - Attaching Exhaust
Assembling the headers was a little tricky as the header ends wrapped around the square end of the left rear pipe. I mounted the engine into the frame so it could act as a jig while putting everything in place. It was difficult to hold everything, but once in place some liquid cement promptly glued everything in place. I left the pipes on the engine/frame until the the cement had fully cured.
The XF-24 was substituted for BEX and sealer. The headers were then masked off and the rear pipes and mufflers were painted with BAP and buffed. The mufflers were also buffed with SnJ Aluminium Polishing Powder ( wear a respirator!) for a amazingly brilliant shine.
Step #8 - Attaching Radiator
With the engine in the frame, the hoses were heat formed to give the proper shape for routing from the radiator to the engine. Then sanded them with 1500grit paper to remove the sheen.
I made hose clamps from 1mm wide Bare-Metal Foil and added a 1.5mm length of #28 wire for the tightening 'screw'.
Step #9 - Taillights
I masked the portion of the taillight lens to remain clear. Then painted the inside of the lens with X-27. The inside of the turn signal lenses were painted with X-26. Lenses were installed with Kristal Klear.
Painted the control housings and fluid tanks with BEX and sealer. Then detail painted the fluid level inspection windows in the fluid reservoirs. This was done with a circle of CR, then three blacks semi-circles and finally painted over with X-19.
Painted the grips with X-18:3 + XF-63:1 and the ends with X-1. On the right control, painted the switch with XF-2 and then X-7 in order to get a bright red. Painted some white marks to suggest switch information.
Painted the control levers with CR.
I filled the injector pin marks on the forks with CA and sanded them smooth with the Flex-I-File and 1500grid paper.
The calipers painted with BEX and sealer instead of XF-24. Again, the XF-24 didn't look right. Then the calipers were masked with Maskol and fork bodies were touched up with NBA. After removing the Maskol, the caliper was touched up with BEX. Highlighted the brake line fittings with NBA:1 + NBB:1.
I drilled holes in the right control for two lengths #28 gauge wire for the throttle cables. The ends of the wire were CAed into a small length of vinyl tubing and routed under the front of the tank. The throttle cables were CAed into place and then painted with X-18:3 + XF-63:1.
Step #11 - Attaching Front Fork
Step #12 - Cowling
Primed all the parts with Canadian Tire Grey Primer. All imperfections were touched up with some automotive spot putty and the cowling was re-primed.
Added the wrinkles to the seat covering and painted with XF-63. Then buffed to give it a sheen and bring out the wrinkled texture.
The underside of the cowling was painted with XF-63:1 + X-18:1.
Step #13 - Attaching Cowling
The inside of the front cowling was painted with XF-63:1 + X-18:1.
The body colour of the mirror housings was masked off and the mirror arms painted with BEX and sealer. It was supposed to be XF-24, but it didn't look dark enough when compared with 1:1 photos.
There are two sets of indicators lights (see diagram below) on either
side of the speedometer. A turn signal , high beam, and stand indicator on the let. And a
turn signal, oil and neutral on the right. These are just depressions on the panel and
there are no decals or painting instructions. The depressions were first painted with CR
and then with the appropriate clear paints X-27 (stand & oil), X-26 (left & right
turn signals), X-23 (high beam) and X-25 ( neutral ). Since I didn't have clear green, I
mixed some with X-23:1 + X-24:1. The CR base makes all the indicators show up nicely. The
more clear paint you use the darker they'll be. So, just use a thin clear colour coat if
you want a light 'on'. There is also a cone shaped (see diagram for profile) push
on/off switch to the lower right of the speedometer. I made a cone from
sprue, inserted it
into the hole and painted it with XF-1.
I would suggest you test fit all the bodywork before starting to add the windscreen, instrument panel, etc. Doing this revealed that the front fairing did not fit quite right. The screw hole on the left side was off by about 0.5-1.0mm. This was corrected by filing down the locator hole on the back of the headlight reflector (D8). Also, the side panels can be a little to install. Be patient.
Made 'glass' covers for the instruments from clear sheet. The panel will look 100% better than just covering the instrument faces with X-22 or Kristal Klear. Installed instrument faces with Kristal Klear. I applied the Kristal Klear to the decal face and then laid the 'glass' into the Kristal Klear being careful not to leave air bubbles underneath. In hindsight, it would have been better to make 'glass' faces a bit oversized and scribe a groove in the sides of the instrument bezel so the faces would snap into place.
Installed the mesh into to the nose scoops using Kristal Klear. The mesh must be curved, so I laid a pair of heavy tweezers on the screen so it would conform to the scoop's shape while the Kristal Klear dried. When installing the mesh in the nose, be aware that the top of the mesh is very close to the headlight reflector and you'll probably need to trim it so it won't interfere with the headlight reflector.
I painted inside the front turn signal housing with CR. Painted the inside of all the lenses with X-26.
I polished the windscreen with Tamiya's Polishing/Rubbing Compound to get very shiny 'glass'. Then masked the windscreen and painted the lower portion with X-18:3 + XF-63:1 on the inside.
Lenses and windscreen were installed with Kristal Klear.
The mirror faces were masked with Tamiya masking tape and the perimeter painted with X-18:3 + XF-63:1. The mirror faces were cemented into the housing with Kristal Klear and the mirror assemblies cemented to the front cowling with Kristal Klear. Some masking tape was used to support the assemblies in the proper position while Kristal Klear dried.
Step #16 - Attaching Under Cowling
The inside of the lower cowling was painted with XF-63:1 + X-18:1.
I lightly sanded the centerline of the tire with 400grit paper and added tire and brake discs. Also made a new valve stem to replace the one I broke off while washing the parts. I made it using a piece of #28 wire for the stem and a blob of Kristal Klear for the cap and CA glued it to the wheel. Important: be sure to refer to tire/wheel profile here as the Markings and box sides are incorrect.
Replaced the axle screw with a piece of 3/32" brass tubing.
Important: I couldn't add the left side fairing since it appears the end of the radiator is interfering with the fairing. Everything fit pretty good when off the bike. Rather that try to trim down the radiator and risk doing more harm than good, I left well enough alone. A little disappointed, but I had intended to leave this side off anyway so the engine, radiator, etc. could be viewed instead of hiding it under the fairings.
I used Microscale's Micro-Set to apply the decals.